This route starts and ends in lush and warm climates and in the middle there is a 15,000+ foot pass near the monolithic Cerro Salkantay(20,670 feet). On the bus ride I met a local who had a Denver Broncos jacket on and he gave me all kinds of useful information about the trail and people he knew along the way. In fact, I never had to use the topo map I bought as the kind camposinos headed up to their remote and rustic homes always seemed to be conveniently at every fork in the trail to point me in the right direction. There is almost no tourist activity right now so I really had this (wet and muddy) place to myself. I luckily saw Salkantay, but only for a few minutes before it went behind the clouds and the rain kicked in. Carrying a heavy pack in severe rain, deep mud, and high altitude wore me out a bit, but after 4 days, I made it to the last leg of the journey where you walk 12 km along a tranquil train track that sees one train per day (that I purposefully missed) ending in Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.
I spent the next day exploring Machu Picchu, a true marvel that is perched on a cliffed out mountaintop. I got there early before the hoards of tourists showed up in buses that wind up the curvacious road from Aguas Calientes far below. The Incas did a stand up job building this sacred site as the terraces, aqueducts, and beautiful stone work abound. Waynapicchu, a steep mountain with its own ruins was a highlight to climb and view Machu Picchu far below.
After a few days back in Cuzco drinking copious amounts of fresh juice at the central market and visiting the Sacred Valley with my Broncos buddy, Yuri, I flew up to Lima, a booming metropolis of 12 million on the dry coast. After 24 hours of city life and clothes washing, I took an overnight bus to Huaraz. This is the gateway to the second highest mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca, and the Cordillera Huahuash, her more remote and rough little brother.
I spent the next two weeks backpacking through these two ranges, first with a brother and sister from Chicago and then in the Huahuash with a 55 year old camposino named Sobino and his horse Picaflores named for his tendency to run off and chase lady horses. Although I got knocked around by the weather, I got a great taste of the beauty and magnificence of this area. I am already devising a 12 day trek in the years ahead in the Huahuash that will include a donkey train carrying everything from live chickens to cold beer, spectacular views, high (16,500 ft) mountain passes, 3 hot springs, nearly untouched lakes and rivers for fly-fishing, and much more if you are interested.
So now I am back in Lima and about trade out my boots and backpack for flip flops and a surfboard. The Peruvian coast is world famous for its long and uncrowded breaks. So I am off... dude... Surf’s Arriba! Much Love to ALL!
I met Yuri on the bus to start my trek to Machu Picchu and he gave me all sorts of useful info. He ended up spending a day showing me all around the Sacred Valley outside of Cuzco when I got back from Machu Picchu. I would never have met him if it weren´t for the jacket... Go Broncos.
Salkantay (20,670 feet) peeking out of the clouds for a mere 2 minutes. Enough to make me go "oh my!"
On the 15,000+ foot pass with quite the view. A camposino crossing with his train of donkeys was nice enough to take my photo with Salkantay in the background. I will just photoshop it in when I get home.
Happy to have missed the train, I walk the remaining 12 km to Machu Pichu with a Canadian I met at the train station and convinced to walk with me.
Incredible rock work at Machu Picchu. They had geometry and gravity (intricate canal systems) figured out...
Machu Picchu with Waynapicchu in the background.
Early morning atop Waynapicchu, a steep mountain high above Machu Picchu. Fit tourists make the climb for the amazing views. I didn´t see very many Americans!!!
Stairway to Heaven high on Waynapichu. One step more and you drop off about 1000 feet. No handrails back then either...
High up on the top of Waynapicchu.
Yep, I did it again...
Yury, my buddy and private guide of the Sacred Valley outside of Cuzco. Go Broncos!
Huaraz, Peru frisbee club. I was lucky enough to be in town on a Friday when they play and drink chicha instead of gatorade.
Santa Cruz Trek in Cordillera Blanca
Gavin taking in the view as we head up to Punta Union high in the Cordillera Blanca.
Punta Union in Cordillera Blanca, 15,180 feet.
Mudslides can slow the ride into the Cordillera Huahuash... they fit 21 inside this van and two rode on top with all the bags and live chickens since this is pretty much the only car that passes through all day.
The 4 foot, 4 inch gate keeper of Mahuay, a small town in the Cordillera Huahuash only accesible by foot, whether it be your own or a donkey´s.
Round one on Rondoy Pass in the Cordillera Huahuash, 15,675 feet. Pelting ice rain greeted me and followed me all the way down to the lakes far below.
Round 2 on Rondoy Pass at 5:30 the next morning. I forgot my Leatherman far below on the other side the day before where we had lunch. I told Sobino that I would wake up at 4 AM and if it was cloudless (we had been in a raincloud for the past 2 days), I would go back and get it. Needless to say the stars were out and so were the sillouttes of the 20,000 foot peaks surrounding us!
Sure enough, my Leatherman was patiently awaiting my return on the other side of the pass as the sun rose on the Huahuash...
Third time is a charm! Back on the high Rondoy pass for a perfect view of the surrounding peaks.
Finally, I get a taste of the beautiful Cordillera Huahuash. Morning light on Paso Rondoy looking out on Cerro Rondoy and others.
Sobrino, the man in his backyard of the Huahuash. This 55 year old native of the area made a great companion for 5 days.
